Even writing that title makes me feel like I’m going to throw up. I’m going to pretend it’s not there and instead tell you about the Balkans.
buredžici
First stop: Dubrovnik. Dubrovnik is pretty… pretty dear! I ate a lot of cheap creamy yogurt that comes in a carton that you can drink from. And I spilled a bag of müsli on the floor. The best thing I ate in Dubrovnik was probably a plum, one of those little Italian ones. Yeah.
Mostar, though. Mostar was full of good food. The photo above is from the little hole-in-the-wall burek place I stopped in on my first day. A huge plate of buredžici, tiny meat bureks in a tangy garlic-yogurt sauce, with a spinach burek on the side for good measure, ran me less than 2 euros. The next day I had a whole grilled trout on the terrace of a restaurant overlooking the Neretva river. It came with an entire loaf of bread, greens, and salad. 5 euros. And then there was the meat burek from the wood-fired oven that I ordered for delivery and ate for two consecutive meals. 1 euro. Thank you, Mostar.
I didn’t take any food pictures in Sarajevo, but I did eat cevapi 3 days running, and went to the fancy patisserie in the Hotel Europe. The cevapi was invariably served by very grumpy blonde women. I also started waking up in a panic at 7:14 a.m. every day. I didn’t realize until later that this was probably because of the massive amount of espresso I was consuming. (Hey, when you can get a shot of espresso for 50 cents, it’s hard to say no. But Just Say No anyway.)
Sadly, Bosnia is one of the few European countries without Google Maps, so I cannot show you where these lovely cevapi places, staffed by ogres, are located. It is also one of the few without McDonalds (maybe the only one, actually). But they do have signs like this one:
no guns, no ice cream, and nothing in between.
I don’t know why that’s blurry (thanks a lot web resolution), but you get the drift. Stay tuned for reviews of our last suppers (gulp) in Berlin.
NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO no last suppers, never say die